In May 2025 we enjoyed an unforgettable self-guided tour through Japan, covering Tokyo, Takayama, Osaka, Kyoto and Hakone, and it genuinely exceeded expectations from start to finish. Credit to Trailfinders for helping us develop a superb itinerary.
We travelled with British Airways in Premium Economy, which cost approximately £1,920 plus a companion voucher for two people. The experience was superb both outbound and inbound, with comfortable seating, good service and a very civilised way to travel for a long-haul journey.
Tokyo – A Brilliant Introduction to Japan
Our first stop was Tokyo, where we stayed at the Park Hotel Tokyo. The location was excellent, being very close to the train station which made exploring the city extremely easy. The hotel itself had a wonderful bar area overlooking Tokyo Tower, which was particularly impressive at night. Breakfasts were very good, although the rooms were beginning to feel a little tired.
To help us stay awake after landing, we headed straight out on our first evening to experience the famous Shibuya Crossing, which absolutely lived up to expectations and was a fantastic introduction to the energy of Tokyo.
One of the highlights of the entire holiday was a private guided tour of Tokyo. We would highly recommend doing this early in the trip as it gave us a real understanding of the city and its culture. Our guide took us to some of Tokyo’s key landmarks and districts including Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa, the Meiji Shrine, the Imperial Palace area, Harajuku and Shibuya. It was informative, efficient and an excellent way to navigate such a huge city.
We also adapted well to the weather when rain arrived on day three by spending time visiting museums and indoor attractions, which worked perfectly.
Takayama – The Cultural Highlight
Takayama was an unbelievable experience and probably the most culturally enriching part of the entire trip. Staying in traditional Japanese accommodation was something very special. We wore traditional Japanese yukata during our stay and, in keeping with tradition, shoes were not worn throughout much of the ryokan experience. The breakfasts and evening meals were served traditionally on lower tables in private koshitsu. The service was lovely, the food equally.
The atmosphere in Takayama was calm, authentic and completely different from the larger cities. It gave us a genuine insight into traditional Japanese hospitality and customs.
Rail Travel in Japan – Outstanding Throughout
The train system throughout Japan was exceptional. Every train was punctual, clean, efficient and remarkably easy to use once you become familiar with the stations.
We would strongly recommend upgrading to the Green Car where possible. The additional cost is relatively modest and the extra comfort, quieter carriages and additional space made longer journeys even more enjoyable.
Osaka – Vibrant and Energetic
Our Osaka hotel was centrally located with an excellent room and ideal access to the city. Breakfast was extremely busy however, so arriving early is definitely advisable.
We completed a food tour in Osaka which was enjoyable, although probably not essential compared with some of the other experiences available in Japan.
We also visited Osaka Castle, which is certainly worth seeing, but we would strongly recommend arriving early in the morning as the heat later in the day was intense.
During our stay we visited some of Osaka’s main cultural attractions including Shitenno-ji Temple and Sumiyoshi Taisha Shrine, both of which offered a fascinating contrast to the city’s modern commercial centre.
Kyoto – Beautiful Beyond Expectations
Kyoto was truly beautiful and easily one of the most impressive cities we have visited anywhere in the world. We stayed in a boutique hotel close to the centre of town which was perfectly adequate and very convenient for sightseeing.
Once again, a private guided tour proved invaluable. Our guide took us to many of Kyoto’s most iconic sites including Kinkaku-ji (the Golden Pavilion), Fushimi Inari Shrine with its famous torii gates, Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Arashiyama Bamboo Grove and the Gion district.
Kyoto combines stunning scenery, traditional architecture and a calm atmosphere in a way that feels completely unique.
Just under an hour from Kyoto or Osaka, Nara Park offers one of the most relaxing and culturally rich day trips in Japan. The park is famous for its hundreds of free-roaming deer, considered sacred messengers in Japanese folklore, which wander freely through the gardens, temple grounds and tree-lined pathways. We “enjoyed” an interesting encounter with deer, having been persuaded to purchase food for them from a local seller. They have a strong bite!
The highlight of the visit is undoubtedly Todai-ji Temple, home to the enormous Great Buddha housed inside one of the largest wooden buildings in the world. Nearby, the beautiful Kasuga Taisha Shrine, with its thousands of hanging lanterns, provides a quieter and more atmospheric contrast. We also loved strolling through Isuien Garden and the surrounding parkland, particularly during the autumn colours.
Nara is also an excellent place to sample regional delicacies. Traditional kakinoha-zushi — pressed sushi wrapped in persimmon leaves — is a local speciality, while freshly pounded mochi and warming bowls of udon can be found throughout the old streets surrounding the park. Combined with the peaceful scenery and historic temples, it made for one of the most memorable days of our Japan itinerary.
Hakone – Worth Extending Your Stay
Our final major stop was Hakone, where we stayed at the excellent Hotel Indigo Hakone Gora. Reaching Hakone was slightly more complicated than other parts of the trip, involving several trains and some fairly steep walking with luggage, but it was absolutely worth the effort.
The hotel itself was superb, with an excellent room and a fabulous restaurant. We only stayed for one night, but in hindsight we would strongly recommend staying for at least two.
We finally managed to see Mount Fuji during our visit to Lake Ashi, where we also took the famous pirate ship cruise across the lake. This was one of the standout moments of the holiday and is an absolute must-do if visiting Hakone.
Final Thoughts
We finished the holiday with an overnight stay near Tokyo Airport before our 9am return flight home. The return journey with British Airways in Premium Economy was excellent once again.
Overall, this was one of the best holidays we have ever taken. Japan is incredibly clean, safe, efficient and welcoming. The combination of modern cities, ancient culture, superb transport and outstanding food makes it a truly special destination.
Our strongest recommendations would be:
- Book private guided tours in Tokyo and Kyoto.
- Upgrade to Green Car rail travel where possible.
- Stay longer in Hakone if your itinerary allows.
- Arrive early for Osaka Castle and busy hotel breakfasts.
- Embrace the traditional ryokan experience in Takayama.
Japan exceeded expectations in every respect and plan to return in the coming years. It is worth noting that a self-guided tour is pretty exhausting and fast-moving (we both developed heavy colds during the trip and it took a while to recover). That said, it was worth every penny.